Day visit to Trogir

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Zvonimir Peran

2019-02-23

On February 9, 2019. I decided to visit Trogir, a small coastal town 20 kilometers away from Split. Prior that time I had only a small portion of knowledge about it. All I knew was the fact that Trogir was a small coastal town with interesting Cathedral to visit.
Continue reading to find out my impressions and useful visitor's information.


How to arrive in Trogir

My starting destination was Split. I used a car as a means of transport. The journey from Split to Trogir was pleasing. There was no traffic jam, and the road was really good. Most of the time my driving speed was 60 - 80 km/hour. The journey took around half an hour.
After passing Kastela and Split Airport, there was a sign which showed Trogir. It was really easy to access and approach the town. I left my car 1 kilometre away from the old town.
The parking was free because I was visiting during the winter season. If you plan to go there during the summer season, there will be more cars on the road for sure, but that shouldn't make any significant problem. You will also need to pay for parking. The price is 6 kuna (around 0.80 euros) per hour.

If you come to Croatia without a car, there are many bus lines from all major Croatian cities to Trogir. You can buy a ticket online, or at the bus station, whichever you prefer.


Trogir Cathedral

One of the first buildings you will notice in Trogir is The Cathedral of St. Lawrence. It is a UNESCO protected gothic masterpiece of art. The cathedral's gothic bell tower was visible to me immediately after leaving the car.
There are a few points of visitor's interest regarding the cathedral. The first one is the cathedral itself, the second one is climbing the bell tower and the third one is the cathedral treasury.
I decided to check the cathedral interior first.
The most important cultural attraction of the cathedral is Portal (main entrance), made by Radovan in the 13th century. It is considered to be a masterpiece of gothic art. Even if you are not an expert in art, you will enjoy the view of the Portal. It is worth to look at it for at least ten minutes.


Radovan's portal

Radovan's portal
Radovan's portal


Radovan's work of art is stepping forward from the former Romanesque art into Gothic. There are many things showing Radovan was not only a great sculptor but a man ahead of his time.
We will explore a few details from the portal.


Detail from Radovan's portal1
Detail from Radovan's portal1


The image above is a sculpture on the left side of the Portal. It is a typical romanesque-gothic work of art, with a stiffened character.


Detail from Radovan's portal2
Detail from Radovan's portal2


This image displays animal, which was also common a motif in art of that age. There is no known reason why were these kinds of sculptures made at the entrances of the churches.



Upper part of the Portal
Upper part of the Portal


On the upper part of the Portal, sculptures describe moments from Christ's birth.


Every day's scenes on the Portal
Every day's scenes on the Portal


Many of the details of the sculpture show motifs from everyday's life, which shows us that Radovan was ahead of his time. Most of the artist of that age were reluctant to make art of that kind. Sacral art was the only one until later age and reinsurance.


The Cathedral interiror

Most of the paintings located inside the Cathedral originate from later periods, Renaissance and Baroque.

The main altar of the Trogir Cathedral
The main altar of the Trogir Cathedral


The Cathedral Bell tower

Price for climbing bell tower is 2 euros. It took five minutes for me to climb at the top. There is a nice view of Trogir and Čiovo from there, as you can see on the images below

Trogir Ciovo bridge
Trogir Ciovo bridge


Trogir
Trogir

Riva in Trogir

Riva in Trogir
Riva in Trogir


After visiting impressive Trogir Cathedral, it was time to take a walk on Riva.
The atmosphere was relaxed, with locals sitting in coffee bars and enjoying the late winter sun. I felt the same atmosphere that can be felt in Split, Sibenik and other ancient coastal towns in Croatia.


Fortress Kamerlengo

The second most famous cultural attraction of Trogir is Fortress Kamerlengo. It was built by Venice in the 15th century for the purpose of defence against the Osman Empire. Venice, which at that time had the rule over most of Dalmatian coast, built similar fortresses in other towns. Especially famous are Sibenik fortresses.
The fortress is trapeze-shaped with four towers at its angles.
Unfortunately, I couldn't enter the fortress because it was closed. Visitors can enter inside only during the summer season.

Fortress Kamerlengo
Fortress Kamerlengo

There are a few other interesting buildings and sculptures in Trogir as well. Baroque lunette of on the church of St. Peter was built by Nikola Firentinac, famous architect and sculptor who also participated in the construction of Sibenik Cathedral.

St Peter lunette
St Peter lunette


Elementary school in Trogir
Elementary school in Trogir

Island Čiovo

Just near the city of Trogir, there is an island called Čiovo, which is also a tourist destination. Čiovo has many beautiful apartments, beaches and restaurants.
There are two bridges connecting Čiovo with the land. One of them is closed occasionally due to the passage of ships.

Ciovo island
Ciovo island